landscape

A trip up North : Giant’s causeway

My friends have never been to the Northern Ireland before, so our trip was very touristy and brief. After leaving Carrick A Rede Rope bridge we took a 20 minutes drive to our second destination – the Giant’s Causeway Visitor center.

The Giant’s causeway is a magnificent natural rock formation declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1986. It was formed 50-60 million years ago as a result of seven consequent flows of lava. Tectonic plates were moving and magma from deep inside Earth spewed through cracks in the surface. Lava flowed and cooled in contact with air and water, hardening into basalt. Then it was covered with another layer of lava an so on. This process created deep horizontal cracks all along the surface that extended vertically forming honey-comb shaped columns.

The formation consists of about 40,000 interlocking, mostly hexagonal basalt columns, but some columns have four, five, seven or eight sides. They say there is only one column with three sides.

This is what the geologists think. Yet, there is another story. A giant named Finn Mac Cumhaill lived with his wife Oonagh on the Antrim coast. He had a very annoying Scottish neighbor giant Benandonner. On one occasion Finn scooped a chunk of earth and hurled it across the sea at his enemy, missed, and thus created the Isle of Man.

One day Finn tore pieces of rocks from the cliff and made a causeway to walk across the sea and fight Benandonne. When coming closer he realized that his giant neighbor was bigger that he expected! Frightened Finn turned back and ran home with Benandonne hot on his heals. To hide him loyal Oonagh disguised Finn as a baby. When Benandonne saw the size of the “sleeping baby” he fled in terror breaking up the causeway in case he might be followed. Funny giants.

I climbed the columns to get a better view. This is a bus stop down there, and the road to the Visitor center ( 1 km?)

This is a part of the giant-made causeway. The tide is coming in, so the end of the rocky road disappears in the water but you can see that it is quite long.

This is the view on the other side from where I was perched. Another half an hour walk to the Organ pipes (across the little bay) , but I have never been there, always because of the lack of time.

In the image below, on the right side you can see a high and almost vertical column formation. It is where I was taking my causeway picture from. The other side is easy to climb – 5 year old can do it. This side is only for experienced climbers. In summer 2012 more than one thousand people gathered here to cheer The Olympic Torch bearer, 10 times Iron Man Peter Jack from Coleraine.

This image was taken in December 2005. We had the place all for ourselves.

These two images are taken in August 2005. A little bit more people but still very quiet.

This time the place was very busy.

This is a curious rock formation you pass on the way to the Visitor center. August 2005, bright sunny afternoon. Harsh shadows make the rocks look like petrified giants.

The road to the Visitor center. We took a bus.

Off we go to our last destination – Dark Hedges.

To be continued.

Photography tip of the day: If you often take pictures of the sky and around water get yourself a polarising filter. To know what size of the filter you need check your lens: it is the diameter.

Have a great weekend!

Golden faces, silver eyes and blue eyelids.

It started raining. Creeping from one rock to another I was finally done with photographing the puffins willing to pose.

I looked around and saw that my peeps took off and started to disappear one by one in the sea of ferns. So I hurried after them.

Our next destination was Gannet Headland, a nesting ground for the Northern gannets. You cannot see the place before you climb up to the highest point of the island through the high ferns and then walk down to the rugged cliffs. Then you just stop there, speechless.

The gannet is Europe’s largest sea bird with a wingspan up to 2 metres. The adults are white and the young birds are very dark brown. It takes 5 years for them to reach maturity and start breeding. They say there are two thousand couples nesting there on the island. The gannets make their nests from seaweeds, feathers and human made materials found in the water.

Gannet with a bunch of seaweed to furnish the nest.

Gannets hunt fish by plunge-diving from a remarkable height into the sea and then using their wings and feet to swim deeper. After returning from the sea they have this gentle ritual of affection with the other partner, preening and touching the bills.

The young chick reaches deep into its parent’s throat for its meal of partially digested fish.

The parent birds take turns warming the eggs and protecting the chicks.

The gannets are very vocal:)

As you can see, there are some couples with very young chicks, naked and helpless, and some with the older ones, covered with soft white down.

Gannets have very interesting features. For example, they have no external nostrils: they are located inside the mouth. Their eyes are positioned slightly up to the front which gives them a better view.

There is my reflection in the gannet’s eye:)

Clumsy on take-offs and landings the gannets are powerful fliers with an impressive wing span.

Now I want to share something sad. Please read this article…

Gold-faced, silver-eyed, gracious birds… Isn’t there anything else to eat in this century?

There are also other species of birds on the island. This is a Herring gull in its flight.

This is a Fulmar.

These are the Blackback gull chicks.

This angry bird is a Shag. Shags breed colonially between the rocks and in sea caves.

This is the island owners’ house. We were heading to the shelter to hide from the rain and wait for our boat.

The ferrying boat could not come closer, so we had to be carried over there by an inflatable boat.

Little and Great Saltee islands on the horizon. It was one of the most memorable trips in my life.

I hope you enjoyed this trip with me. You can click on the pictures to make them bigger. They are all resized for the web with resolution 72, so you won’t have problems opening them. Same for the previous post about the Puffins.

Photography tip of the day: When you are going to take pictures of sea birds, not having a telephoto shouldn’t stop you – the birds let you come close enough. These pictures were taken with a 70-200, but you can bring any lens you have. The settings matter, as I wrote in the previous post, and your vision matters. I wanted to get dreamy, a little bit grainy pictures with blurred background. Also watch your white colors. It is important to see the details on the white feathers, otherwise they look like burnt-out spots.

Have a great week!

The Cliffs of Moher, Ireland’s best

Towering 700 feet above the Atlantic the Cliffs of Moher is one of the most beautiful and awe-inspiring tourist attractions in Ireland. And a tourist friendly too. If you are fit and experienced you can take a two hour cliff walk from Doolin to the Cliffs of Moher Visitor Center. The trail is remote and exposed. In some places there is very little space between the path and abyss: it could be a challenge in bad weather. You can learn more about the trail and guided tours on http://www.seaview-doolin.ie/news/. You can take a shorter and easier walk from the Visitor Center to Hags Head, two hours return, yet it is not suitable for little children, especially in bad weather. If you are not fit, traveling with a baby or simply have no time, do what I did: just walk up to O’Brien’s tower from the Visitor center and enjoy the view on your way. All your questions about the Cliffs are answered here: http://www.cliffsofmoher.ie/

The view from O’Brien’s tower is magnificent, but you are getting a better sense of scale looking up rather than down. We took a boat trip from Doolin, one hour both ways, to get closer to the Cliffs and to see how high they really are.

One of the caves was featured in Harry Potter movie:)

Branaunmore sea stack, a nesting place to a variety of sea birds.

If you have more than one lens it makes sense to take another camera with you on a boat trip. The scenery and lighting are changing rapidly while on a boat, and you can miss good shots, as I did…

Doolin is a spectacular village worth to visit. All the travel guides mention Gus O’Connor’s Pub, and it is a great and very atmospheric place well known for its traditional Irish music sessions (they say that Doolin is a capital of traditional music). If you only want to get some today’s catch fish and some chips and a quiet place to enjoy your lunch, go to Fitz’s Bar: it is as good as O’Connors, and their food is excellent!

I have been visiting the Cliffs of Moher more than once. There are a few pictures taken in 2004 and 2005. Not always the weather was as welcoming as this time…

The Cliffs of Moher are 300 million years old, but they don’t look the same now as they did then. Coastal erosion undermines the base of the bluffs causing the upper parts of the cliff to collapse. In fact, people walking on the top of the Cliffs are risking their lives without realizing it. They can slip, they can get blown off by wind and they can go down with a collapsing piece of path, at any time. To stay safe, we have to be respectful to Nature, and never reckless or disruptive. This is the way that balances the world.

Photography tip of the day: To take pictures from a boat use a very fast shutter speed ( or “sport” setting), stand with your legs spread and your knees slightly bended.

Have a great day!

Narrow roads and pink mountains

Last week I visited a friend in Burncourt, Co Tipperary. I chose a narrow country road for fun and delightful drive. Didn’t know it would be that narrow… When I startled a pheasant sleeping in the middle of the road and he lazily walked away, I thought I got lost… I didn’t take any pictures, but this one ( shared on Facebook) gives you an idea:)

After the visit I thought I might better go up the mountains on my way home. My initial plan was to stop by the ruins of Shanbally castle barbarically demolished in 1960, but I changed this plan in favor of driving South towards my favorite Old Clonmel-Cork Road.

This area lies in the Galtee-Vee Valley (Golden Vale) with the Galtee Mountains to the north and the Knockmealdown Mountains to the south. I love the rolling hills and open pastures with the breathtaking hilltop views, and I love the gradual transition from the green sunlit Knockmealdowns to the dark and lonesome Comeraghs.

In Clogheen I turned to the Vee.

The Vee Pass in Knockmealdown mountains (refers to the V-shaped turn) is a beautiful place to visit all around the year because of its stunning panoramic views, but in June the wild rhododendrons bloom in the hills, and it is the view you will never forget.

In the picture above you can see the Galtees framing the valley from the North.

The blossoms are of the color of frothy foam on the top of boiling raspberry jam. I imagine a gigantic cauldron in the hills above the Bay Lough, and the jam overflowing the cauldron and making its way down through the woods, dripping from the rocks and making puddles in the hollows. A waterfall of pink. I am overwhelmed by this breathtaking beauty.

The Bay Lough lake.

Biological function of a flower is reproduction. Mother Nature made it beautiful.

On my way down the mountain I took a few shots to make this crooked panorama:). Didn’t bother to set a tripod: I was afraid to shy away that young couple. Love is beautiful!

Photography tip of the day: to make a panorama take as many pictures as you need to have a 40-50% overlap. Use portrait format. And a tripod:)

Have a wonderful weekend!

Bluebell day in Jenkinstown woods

My Grand Canyon memory trip worked very well. In spite of the bad forecast I woke up early and boldly went off to Jenkinstown. To my surprise, the weather started getting better, and by the time I arrived, there was summer.

Jenkinstown Park is a gem. At any season. It is sad to see that so many trees are cut down, home for the owls, pine martens, stouts and squirrels… I didn’t see any animals, but crossing a tiny path I felt a strong odor of a small carnivore. Might be a weasel…

Today I came to Jenkinstown Park for a special purpose. Early May is a season for bluebells, and this is the place!

A breathtaking carpet of blue overtakes the forest floor and glorious smell fills the air. Photographers of all kinds make their annual pilgrimage. Like today. The sun is shining through the leaves ( the sun and the copper beech tree have special relationships); a little robin is singing his simple fluting song… I wish I had time to stay here all the day, walk all the trails, catch a glimpse of a badger, find a sleeping owl or watch baby foxes playing… I only have two hours: one hour for photography, the other hour for having a marvellous time while walking back to the car park…

This year the bluebell season started late. I could come here next week and get a brighter blue, but I think that this delicate hazy shade is lovely.

I met a good few photographers, and even took a picture of a couple by request. Young and old, they came here because people need beauty. It is so wonderful that there are places like this one where you can come and fill yourself with beauty and peace.

Heraclitus said that no man ever steps in the same river twice. I got caught twice in the same rain today – does it count? First time it showered me after I left the woods, on the way to Freshford, and then it got me when I was leaving Clonmel. Fresh, aggressive, dedicated to wet you to the bone… My bluebell season is over for this year, but I will visit Jenkinstown later in summer again.